Rioja ’La Canoca’ - Tempranillo & Viura (22)

Tempranillo & klein percentage Viura | vanaf 2022 afkomstig van meerdere plots in de lieu-dit | 50 jaar oude bush vines | 540 meter hoogte | terroir van leem en kalk | omgeven door wilde kruiden zoals venkel, tijm en rozemarijn | 100% ontsteeld | gisting in open kuipen | rijping voor 10 maanden in 500l Frans eiken | 3200 flessen geproduceerd | ceder | fraîcheur | floraal | kruiden | stenig en fraai | gul | diep

José Gil

Zelden een wijnmaker ontmoet die op jonge leeftijd al zo toegewijd is aan zijn wijngaarden en zo snel naam en faam maakt binnen de wijnwereld. José Gil en zijn vrouw Vicky runnen samen 5ha aan wijngaarden in Rioja. Al hun wijngaarden zijn terug te vinden rondom het “grand cru" dorp San Vicente de la Sonsierra. Hier hebben Olivier Rivière en Abel en Maite Mendoza ook hun wijngaarden liggen. Vaak zijn de percelen niet groter dan een kwart hectare en tegen of zelfs over de 100 jaar oud. 

In 2021 roept wijnjournalist Tim Atkim MW José en Vicky uit tot "Young Winemaker of the Year” in zijn speciale Rioja Report. Ze maken wijnen op basis van single vineyards en één Vino de Pueblo (village wijn). José heeft stage gelopen in de Bourgogne en Mosel en heeft zo zijn kijk op de wijngaarden van Rioja doen veranderden. 

Review

There is a change in the 2022 La Canoca, as this year it's no longer a single-vineyard wine but a paraje, or lieu-dit, wine that includes more plots from the same place. Therefore, volumes have grown from 500 bottles in the previous vintage to 3,200 in 2022. This is surprisingly fresh, harmonious and elegant, getting closer to the character of the 2021s, closer than any of the other 2022s. It slowly opened up in the glass to floral notes, hints of wild herbs and crushed stones. The palate is solid and complete, with fine, chalky tannins and a long and tasty finish. It was bottled in September 2023. 95/100 Luis Gutiérrez

Jose Gil doesn't stop. The two wines La Canoca and El Bardallo moved from single-vineyard wines to paraje, or lieu-dit, wines in the 2022 vintage, which increases the number of bottles to about 3,200 bottles each. There's a new white, which will be released after several years of fine-tuning the style they are looking for. There are new plots from La Canoca in 2023, places that he described as "incredible locations and soil qualities." In 2024, he and his wife leased with the option to purchase 4.5 hectares of very old vineyards (80 and 120 years old) in different locations and soils in Labastida, including one hectare of white planted with different varieties. I tasted the 2021 and 2022 versions of the five reds they produce. The 2021s are superb, but the 2022s, a little juicier and more primary, are not far behind.

There are currently 11 hectares of vineyards, owned and rented. They use 500- and 600-liter barrels that age in underground cellars under the San Vicente de la Sonsierra Castle and have a production of 26,000 bottles. This is one of the most exciting young projects in Rioja.