Cincuenta y Cinco - Pinot Noir (22)

Pinot Noir | single vineyard | 1955 geplant | oud rivierbed, kiezels en zand | vergisting in open betonnen tanks | rijping voor 9 maanden in betonnen tanks, Franse eikenhouten barriques en amfora's (40/40/20%) | whole bunch | bourgondisch karakter | elegant | complex | fijne tannine | kersen | zoethout | pruim | aardbei | diepgang | fraîcheur | pure energie

Chacra

Bodegas Chacra is in 2004 gestart door Piero Incisa della Rocchetta, hij is kleinzoon van Marchese Mario Incisa della Rochetta en onderdeel van de familie die in Bolgheri Tenuta San Guido (Sassicaia) bezit. Hij kocht als start een verlaten wijngaard met Pinot Noir die geplant is in 1932 in de Río Negre vallei in het noorden van Patagonië. Het is redelijk onherbergzaam en Neuquén, de stad die het meest in de buurt ligt is een uur rijden.

Het klimaat in Patagonië is een continentaal, warm klimaat met weinig regen en veel wind uit de Andes. Je hebt hier dus op natuurlijke wijze geen last van ziektes zoals meeldauw en andere problemen die met vocht te maken hebben. 

Pinot Noir is niet het eerste druivenras waar je aan denkt bij Argentinië, maar hier in Patagonië is de traditie van Pinot Noir oud. In 1964 stonden er 2400 ha aangeplant in de Rio Negro Vallei. Dit werd vooral voor mousserende wijnen gebruikt. Deze vraag aan Pinot Noir ging snel achteruit en in 1990 stond er nog maar 232 ha. Ondertussen gaat de aanplant weer omhoog.

Sinds 2017 is Jean-Marc Roulot bij het team gekomen om de witte wijnen te maken. Jean-Marc komt uit Meursault en is een van de beste wijnmakers van de Bourgogne. Zijn ‘nieuwe’ stijl van wijnmaken heeft de Bourgogne veranderd. Hij maakt wijnen met spanning, pure zuurgraad en reductief karakter die zeer gezocht zijn. Hij is aanwezig tijdens de oogst en bij het assambleren van de cuvee’s.

Review

The élevage for the 2021 Cincuenta y Cinco was different from the past; they have now aged 40% in concrete tanks (it used to be 25%), 40% in French oak barrels and 20% in clay amphorae for nine months. They use cover crops in the vineyard, where they don't even use sulfur or copper. It fermented in a round and wide concrete vat with indigenous yeasts for 12 to 15 days with full clusters and an infusion with little extraction. It has moderate ripeness and 12% alcohol, with more tension than the others. This is basically the same wine as the Sin Azufre but with a little more oak, which is barely noticeable but with some spiciness and Burgundian character developing tantalizing notes of violet pastille with time in the glass. It has a bright ruby color and a complex and subtle nose full of elegance and nuance. The palate is medium-bodied, with very fine tannins and supple flavors, primary, young and apparently weightless and ethereal but full of inner energy. It has bright flavors of fresh cherries and raspberries and a citrus twist of orange peel that adds freshness. Gobsmacking! 30,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in November 2021. 99/100 Luis Gutiérrez

Chacra is the fully certified organic and biodynamic project in Río Negro (Patagonia) from Piero Incisa della Rocchetta (you might recognize the Sassicaia surname here). He works 25 hectares of red grapes and a further 15 hectares of Chardonnay, all ungrafted and massal selections in Mainqué. Four years ago, they stopped using any chemicals in the vineyard, even sulfur, and have increased the number of beehives and replaced the capsules by beeswax. He has lowered the use of barrels (almost none new) and increased amphorae and concrete, aiming at enhancing the floral, mineral and energy aspects of their wines. They have built a new underground barrel room with bricks made out of local clay and stopped the use of refrigeration, instead using the natural temperature and also humidity (and salt from the river). Evaporation there is lower, and he finds the wines age better. He has also planted a further 30,000 poplar trees to give shade to the vines. Production varies between 125,000 and 135,000 bottles, depending on the vintage. For the white wines, he has the help of Jean-Marc Roulot. 2021 was quite cold but with a warm summer, which is normal in the region that delivered medium-bodied wines with floral and fruit-driven aromas and around 12.5% alcohol. I had a very long tasting with Piero and discussed the wines thoroughly. He wants to make the most delicious wines with no science, but he doesn't like Brett; though he is quite tolerant with volatility, which he says is quite high in all his wines but somehow is not noticeable. Since he introduced the bees, he's never had a fermentation stop. They work with cover crops (seven different ones, mainly mustard), and they are optimizing the use of water for irrigation. The organic and biodynamic approach is delivering results, and the plants are balanced after 20 years of respectful viticulture. The wines are clean, balanced, fresh and pure, alive. They have the protection from the lees, and depending on the years, they filter or not. He has the idea to build a new separate winery for the wines with no sulfur (no more than 25,000 bottles) and is producing new wines, a Syrah, a Bastardo (Trousseau) and a Moscatel, and he has also regrafted a little Poulsard. He's also working in the social aspect of the people who work in the winery, food from the vegetable garden and even houses with solar panels...