Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge (20) - Pinot Noir Niellon

Aromas of dark cherries, spices and licorice introduce the 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge, a medium to full-bodied, bright and fleshy wine built around supple tannins and lively acids. It's a fine effort.

While Michel Coutoux and his daughter Marlène bemoan the impact of climatic extremes on their vineyards—much of the replantings of the 1980s and 1990s, which ought to be entering their prime, will have to be replaced in the near future due to the degeneration of the 161-49 rootstock—the wines of Domaine Michel Niellon themselves remain remarkably unmarked by recent dry, warm vintages. The 2020s are no exception: lively, beautifully balanced and even comparatively tightly wound after their bottling before harvest 2021, they continue a strong recent run at this estate. As ever, bottling is under natural cork.